Monday, February 25, 2019

I Am a Source of Revenue

Given the dependence on tourism in Egypt and the fact that it is still low from it's historical highs of say ten years ago, any tourist is a potential source of revenue. 


An American tourist is even a greater potential source.  Partly this is because Americans basically want people to like them, so you hate to disappoint.  We also tend to have money.  We also don't travel in foreign countries as much as Europeans and Australians. 


Some coping factors that I have developed while here. 


My best so far is when they ask if I am American I always say:  "Ana younani."  Then I ask if they speak Greek in Greek. It terminates the whole spiel they use on Americans, which is tiresome, and makes English a common language to communicate. Used it on these kids and they proceeded to sing  Guantanamera followed by Freres Jacque.  Tara tells vendors she is from Canada. They have a reputation for not buying anything. 


When little kids come and start begging with a forlorn look and hand outstretched, usually asking for a dollar, I just mimic their expression and mannerisms and beg back.  It just cracks them up.  Pretty cute. 


The guards at archaeological sites often are the worst, but you can play it to your advantage.  They often have keys to things locked up, can remove gates in the way or grant special privileges to take photos.  But beware, once you give them some money, they will keep pestering you to show you more and ask for more. A blessing at a great site, a curse, if you want privacy or the site isn't that great.  Along that same vein, at mosques you can often climb the minaret or see a special tomb for a little baksheesh. 


Then there are the other coping techniques, such as don't linger, look straight ahead, never look at their goods, etc. 


Now for some snakes. 










Wednesday, February 20, 2019

Last Night in Cairo

For our last night in Cairo we signed up for a cooking class and dinner with a family in Cairo. Having hosted home stays in Portland, it seemed a nice way to have a experience in Cairo with people living there.

It was a fun experience. We learned about tools for hollowing out eggplant and zucchini, saw the varied spicing of foods, including a lot of dried ginger being used. Our hostess had a set of twin daughters about 6 years old who spoke English quite well, as well as a set of twin sons that were 4 months old. The husband was away leading a 10 day tour. We had a wonderful translator, although our host spoke English quite well.

Was a nice opportunity to interact. The daughters were quite excited and fun to play with.

Last Day in Cairo

We stayed in Giza the night before our last day in Cairo so that we hit the Great Pyramids early in the morning. Our hotel was over by the Sound and Light show entrance, which was great.  None of the tour groups arrive there, so we entered with no crowds and a great view of the Sphinx. 


I did the entry into the center of the Cheops Pyramid. One of those things I just had to do. 


Something we found quite fascinating was the solar boat museum. Full sized boats were packed in carved out granite chambers on each side of the Great Pyramid for sailing through the heavens in the after life. The boat was packed in 13 layers to be assembled when needed. 143 feet long. The museum contained one of the original boats fully assembled. 


https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Khufu_ship


Otherwise, the main things here are the big Pyramids.  


One story has it that a sultan wanted to destroy these pyramids. After working on one of them for eight months, they had a pile of rocks, but the pyramid didn't look any different, so the idea was abandoned. 


One of the guards took me over to the corner of the Great Pyramid and proceeded to tell me to climb it. This is contrary to the signs "Do not climb pyramids" everywhere. He felt he was providing something of value. I refused. He had a machine gun. He wanted a tip even though I refused to climb. Never fun to barter with someone with a machine gun. 


Other places the guards have keys to rooms not otherwise open to the public.  And for a small donation, one can often climb a minaret at a mosque. 







Tuesday, February 19, 2019

More on Cairo Photos










More on Cairo

We were in the Cairo metropolitan area for a total of five days. Initial impressions still the same. 


One aspect of walking in Cairo is the delicate dance between cars, taxis, three wheeler, motorcycles and pedestrians.  There is a whole language of communication taking place with the horns. Lanes really mean nothing. It is not unusual to just walk out into five lanes of traffic to cross a street. Rome was a good warmup, but only ranks a 3 to Cairo's 10 on a ten point scale. 


Day 4 in Cairo we hired a taxi to take us to our hotel in the Giza area. We dropped our bags and then had him drive us south to Saqqara, to see the famous stepped pyramid of Zoser, which was the precursor to the Pyramids in Giza.  It was also the first to use stone rather than mud brick. 


The driver had not been there before. So we used google maps. Problem was that I accepted as our destination the necropolis of Saqqara, which was the local cemetery out on the edge of the town on a hill in the adjacent desert. Actually fascinating to see. Luckily, we were able to find the archeological site. 


There was a great museum at the site with artifacts found locally. Wonderful pieces. We actually enjoyed it more than the Great Pyramids. 


We had the taxi driver join us at the site. He hadn't been before and had a fine time. 


One of the complexes there was the Serapeum. Dates from the Ptolemaic period. Basically it has these huge black granite sarcophagi to house these sacred bulls when they died. Big long corridor with each alcove housing a sarcophagus.  Pretty bizarre and well preserved. 


https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Serapeum_of_Saqqara


Fascinating day that ended with us having an expensive and not very good meal at probably the nicest hotel in the Giza area.  The next day we had falafel and foul at a place the locals eat at in Giza.  That meal was about 30 Egyptian pounds. About $2.00 versus a crappy meal for $80. Seems to be an inverse correlation between what you pay for a meal and how good it is. 


Friday, February 15, 2019

Cairo

Where to begin. It is probably best to start with our arrival. 


Our flight arrived at 1:50 AM. By the time we left the airport it was 3 AM. 


We got into the taxi and off we went. The drive was on back streets, which in retrospect was probably to avoid paying tolls on the road, but at the time it raised the hair on the back of neck. Everything was closed and shut down. 


At one point a driver pulls over and goes around the back of a kind of a convenience store.  We are wondering what the hell was going on. There were people in the store, but we went behind. He finally comes back with two bottles of water for us and some candies. 


When we finally arrive in the neighborhood of our hotel, it reminds us of scenes from Blade Runner. Dirty, worn down and abandoned. We go into the old hotel (built in 1893) and it truly feels like the old buildings in Blade Runner. Old wooden reception desk for checking in. Ancient posters on the wall. Antique elevator.  Strange character at the reception desk. 


One of the goals was to be outside our comfort zone. Goal achieved. 


The next morning, we headed downstairs for breakfast. With the morning light and other people, it was a bit less threatening. 


After being there for three days, it felt kind of normal in a kind of Adams Family way. 


We ended up walking all over the place. Especially in Medieval Cairo and Coptic Cairo. One long walk took us along a market street that starts in a very poor area, slowly moving into more wealthy areas, eventually hitting an area frequented by tourists. 


In the end we found the city quite fascinating. The people very nice and with a sense of humor.  No doubt that we are a potential source of revenue, but one comes to accept it. 


The comparison to Blade Runner still seems appropriate. The entropy of urban decay, the feel of a certain amount of corruption. But add the density of 22+ million people. 


More on Cairo to follow. 









Sound and Light Show

From the top of our hotel.

Monday, February 11, 2019

Food Day

Yesterday wasn't much of a food day. Decent meals and did enjoy doing family lunch in the countryside at the local restaurant.  But today we made up. We stopped at bakeries and had delightful things, great coffee little snack sandwiches. And then we had a nice lunch. Fried pumpkin blossoms stuffed with mozzarella and anchovies, artichokes all's Romana, followed by rigatoni with an oxtail sugo (tomato based) with raisins, pine nuts and Romano cheese, then grilled lamb chops, a chicory salad with an anchovy vinaigrette, a salad mixta, and a fried artichoke. Followed with a tiramisu and cafe. Cafe equals a shot of espresso. Excellent execution and ingredients. 









Sunday, February 10, 2019

Palazzo Massimo

So after thoroughly exhausting ourselves at Hadrian's Villa, we decide to stop at the Palazzo Massimo facility of the National Archeological of Rome. We call this hyper touring, which we often succumb to, and it is not sustainable over time. However, it was the perfect complement to Domus Aurea and Hadrian's Villa because it had really excellent examples of the wall paintings, mosaics for walls and floors and sculptures that would have populated those buildings. Enjoy.

Hadrian’s Villa

After Tivoli Gardens we headed to Hadrian's Villa. We had seen a garden at that site on a documentary on Italian Gardens that had been reconstructed and Tara recalled some thing about the site from art history courses.

It wasn't the main reason for heading out toward Tivoli. It should have been. It is an amazing site. There are some exquisite ruins. Having seen Domus Aurea the prior day and with the quality of these ruins, you could really feel the what the site would have felt like when in use. It is rather huge. Nice design. Hadrian traveled the empire extensively, and especially loved Classical Greek art and architecture. The structure with the circular moat was just breathtaking.

Must see if you go to Rome. The site gives great order to an ancient ruin, which is hard to experience in Rome itself with layers of ruins. Just a lovely place with amazing content.

Tivoli Garden Rome

Today we headed out to the Tivoli area East of Rome. Two reasons to visit. First, the Tivoli Gardens at Villa d'Este. Second, to visit Hadrian's Villa. Both are UNESCO World Heritage sites. We went to Villa d'Este first. It is a Renaissance garden with major waterworks. See photos below. It was great to see, and a nice outing, but a bit early in the season. Ferns were not the their ideal green.

Saturday, February 9, 2019

Hitting Local Markets

Best way to know what is in season at the restaurants, when on the ride. 















George Mardikes
Davis Wright Tremaine LLP
1300 SW Fifth Ave., Suite 2400

Domus Aurea

So today we had a tour of the Domus Aurea. It is an amazing entertainment complex that Nero had built, which was covered over by Trajan with his major bath complex.  A lot of it was excavated, but it is still all underground. Photos below. A must, if you get to Rome. One of our fellow participants was @dariusaryadigs who was the host of the excellent series Ancient Invisible Cities, much of which is underground, on PBS (and Amazon Prime). Amazing stuff about Athens, Istanbul and Cairo. He was on the tour with his parents.  Small world. 












Entropy Series


Lots of cobblestones in Rome.

Early Trademarks

Roman trademark dating between 69 and 94 AD for pottery tile produced by a kiln. Note that the inscription in the first photo is that of the name of a slave, who probably ran the kiln and had a reputation for quality. 







Rome Beauty

Rome has such visual stimulation. For example, the faces of the people are so incredibly varied. I assume it is because it was a global empire with a continual influx of people from across its empire, both from slaves being brought in as spoils of war and from Rome being invaded by populations wanting the Roman life and Roman wealth. It seems there is no standard of beauty, but more of an attitude of beauty. An important lesson.

Friday, February 8, 2019

And There is the Pantheon

We saw from a view from the hills of Rome a huge flattened dome building and initially didn't think it the Pantheon. Notice the scale of the columns compared to humans.  Some nice original detail from the back. The hole in the center of the dome has a diameter of 27 feet (not visible in photos). It dates back to Emperor Hadrian.  Amazing it is still standing. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pantheon,_Rome

George